Homebaking: the Artful Mix of Flour and Tradition Around the World|
by Jeffrey Alford, Naomi Duguid
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|A Review of: HomeBaking: the Artful Mix of Flour and Tradition Around the World
by Sarah Sheard
The husband and wife team of Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid already
have three award-winning cookbooks under their belts and this fourth
one will likely win honours as well. Their first collaboration,
published in 1995, Flatbreads and Flavours: a Baker's Atlas (James
Beard Cookbook of the year Award), was a compendium of different
unleavened breads around the world. The peripatetic couple documented
their gastronomic travels throughout Asia, the Mediterranean, Europe,
North Africa and North America. Along the way, they interviewed the
locals, sampled their wares, photographed them in situ, then returned
home to modify their recipes for North American cooks and kitchens.
It turned out to be a winning approach for the cookbook crowd.
Alford/Duguid produced cookbooks that people take to bed to read.
HomeBaking: The Artful Mix of Flour and Tradition Around the World
inevitably crosses some of the trails they cut globally, researching
their earlier books. Once again, Alford/Duguid have tapped into
ancestral memory-or our fantasies of it-in evoking the sensuality
of making and baking and breaking bread together.
Food and travel naturally combine. Often a traveler's most pungent
memory of a place will be of its local cuisine. The recollection
of a New York City calzone, sprinkled with red pepper flakes and
Parmesan cheese transports the traveller as readily as any airplane.
More often than not, what's most memorable about a place is its
casual fare, eaten at a roadside stand, ideally beside the field
where part of the meal might have been grown.
Alford and Duguid clearly understand the connection between a culture
and its signature foods. After all, what's more intimate than what
goes into our mouths and has been fed to us since infancy? In every
way, it has become inseparable from who we are-and who we aren't.
Crossing a mountain might mean encountering differences between one
valley's bread and another's. Yeasts change character; grains and
spices change too. Even the shapes of a particular people's bread
have evolved to represent their own particular patch of culture.
Crossing the border from Hungary into Austria, for instance, Duguid
and Alford walked into the nearest bakery to discover that the
varieties of bread and sweet baked goods had changed utterly.
There is something poetically pleasing in attempting to recreate
in a North American kitchen, fresh-baked bread stuffed with lamb,
sprinkled with salt, oregano and roughly chopped tomatoes-typical
fare of a Middle Eastern shepherd, whether from Turkey, Syria or
Jerusalem. Okay, so maybe here a food processor replaces the mortar;
and a modern oven, the open fire or the tandoor. The taste is similar
enough to evoke a sense of connection to elsewhere or nostalgia for
a time before our own, of a country our forbears might have left
HomeBaking divides into four main sections: Pastry, Big Breads,
Smaller Breads and Flat Breads, Cakes and Cookies. Within these are
mini-travelogues, personal anecdotes and foody reminiscences,
numerous photos taken by the pair in their travels, of peoples,
terrains and foods. The instructions are detailed and clear and
often a recipe will be followed thoughtfully by a sub-recipe for a
filling or topping referred to in the main recipe.
Despite their evident passion for the exotic, I found their spicing
and flavouring on the timid side and soon quadrupled the recipes'
suggested quantities of the herbs, spices and other seasonings. I
wanted fewer photos of hands kneading dough and more of actual food.
Smiling faces with no food in evidence seemed of greater significance
to the authors than their readers. Those sour pickles aside,
HomeBaking is another gorgeous sit-down reading experience from a
personable couple who've brilliantly combined their loves of travel
and handmade nosh.