Movements of beginning and ending
this bleached-blond shred
of memory
slapped down upon the keys
in the false weight of permanence
fourteen million people
was it twelve?
the boys who came to me
seemed much too numerous in their instability
bright teeth flashing, it was the only thing I could fix on, in the
Crazy taxi careering down the road
taxi black and white, checkerboard square
the taxis are cheap and I said two pounds
they laughed one pound
I said no no two said the driver still laughing
beep beep
the noise of the street curling in under my sleep
how much you pay for this lady you talk to me lady
lady sit here look here lady
ripe fruit in the mango cart
shell-studded poison, exposed orange flesh
the strokes when he cuts it are practised and hard
offered up to me on a calloused palm
the fruit is almost sweeter than i can stand
what makes them honk so much all the time
habit said the taxi driver in the punchline to the joke
the coffee is too sweet here, I learn to say no
no sugar, no essence, no one
in my hotel room at night
the cheap hotel
where the bugs crawl out of the drain in the sink
the taxi is crowded with the smell of the desert
the soldiers are hot in their white uniforms
they rest their guns between their legs
hello, hello, shifting their guns
the sodden black cotton of home
swaying against the balcony
i have fallen away from the earth
the taxi goes quick-quick on the bumpy road
early morning and the sky is an indescribable colour
there are signs on the highway, just like home
spider tracks of writing, far too intricate to mean anything
chok'ram
the money is crumpled and raw
they cannot find change in the small cafe
for such a large amount
again and again the flies settle and lift
they are thick and they move on the floor of the mango stand
in my room I stalk them, they fall between the bedspreads
the shutters bang
'That is why they try for foreign girls, you see:
it is so much easier."
(he had only spoken with his wife-to-be for three hours)
from the curve of the freeway I can see
the rooftops strewn with debris
(heaped and tumbled buildings rising one above the other)
the driver offers me a cigarette
look, he says
look at what we have become
there are tanks behind the gates of the mansions
the pyramids rear up improbable as oases
behind the highrises
"there is nothing to be afraid of;
we are only going to my friend's club
we will drink tea and talk of your home"
no thank you
no, i cannot
that blue in the light of the dusty sun
i feel much safer with black and white
welcome to cairo
welcome to cairo
welcome to cairo
in the apartment my fingers stiff with cold,
this is not how it was,
this is not how i wrote it
in the lined red and black book i bought in Lindau
no no no this is not what i meant at all
driving out into the desert
the car shivers under my seat
i shiver too
the desert is so big
the rotten teeth of the bedouin boy
he smiled anyway,
and i was always taught
not to pay attention to appearances
Tutankhamen smells like cheap perfume
the tea is too sweet,
as usual
the belly dancer on the late night show "i cannot watch
it is forbidden to look the second time"
she swings her hips, the screen is black and white
"come with me:
you must see the real egypt
I assure you that it is perfectly safe"
marooned in the square, your arms pinned by the two rescuers
you rolled your eyes you said your eyes said do not pay attention
to my rotten teeth
the two boys grabbed him in the square, shouted "thief, thief!"
and motioned me to go on
i still have trouble lying
her eyebrows are arched like marlene dietrich
perhaps it is marlene dietrich
nothing would surprise me this far from home
the street hot even at night
the women watch me shyly
when i go to someone's house
his mother brings us tea, the men sit on her chairs
they do not even look when they lift the tea from her tray
your first time in Cairo?
i drag on the cigarette and say yes
Welcome to Cairo
"You know, without the hair,
you could not tell you are a foreigner"
the finger snap, the pointing finger
sit down, sit down there
for the first time i refuse
the boy has shown you
"no you show me, show me
what it is you want"
i refuse
he knows already
i never thought their principles would be more important than
my money
i have learned to look at skirts and at scarves:
those long swathes of fabric hiding the women beneath
the most mysterious of all
have disappeared entirely
but for a square of face where their eyes can look out
and see where the rest of them has gone
i cannot make a message out of those eyes, no matter how hard i
try
instead i see the men
holding onto their arms
as hard as they can
i should know what they are saying
i want a veil, a veil like that woman's there
"ah that kind is only for poor people"
I AM NOT A TOURIST I LIVE HERE
I consider putting a teatowel about my head,
quite seriously
you know where I am going?
which terminal, miss?
will you take care of me?
will I be safe?
do you know if I am going to die?
ah you were only in it for the drama
(I search their faces for my own)
the housecats run under the tables
in the breakfast room
when the people leave i watch them
jump up on the tables and drag down the butter with their claws
"Some of us go to the Cairo Hilton. To get away from it all."
"You might need to."
"It's not expensive. Nothing here is."
"Oh, and it's true, don't drink the water.
oh and it's true what your wife said to me
the driver thinks this would be the most beautiful city in the
world
if it wasn't for the war
she backed out of the room without saying anything
your english is very good, very clear
the men do not even notice as they sip their tea
wait, I need to hear what only you can tell me
(I no longer trust myself)
coffee thick like molasses
in the bazaar
where the tourists sit and drink from clean glasses,
those clean chairs
only i could afford
and how they heat the coffee and pour it out with a flourish
the driver lifts the bags out of the car
i will have to remember the colour of the sky dawning
and how the dust lay across everything
the rings in my bag clank and move
silver rings and dangling pendants
earrings made out of cheap filigree
boxes inlaid with mother of pearl
a wooden doll with a basket on her head
amethyst heads and some that are not
came[ stitched of smooth untanned skin
four soft undershirts, white and full
a box of candy
assorted flavours
lemon, raspberry, coffee and mint
i can get it much cheaper somewhere else
i can get it much cheaper somewhere else
i can get it much cheaper somewhere else
the bracelet is rich and heavy on my arm
solid silver, they assured me
that thin bronze where the plating is beginning to wear away
and in this cold room
in front of this black screen
crouching by the bed with the cover never made
typing into a portable sending words home in case i ever
returned
or in case i didn't,
it was never clear
the wind is falling outside, it can fall all the way to Africa
and how can i follow it there
to the air hot and still and dry as paper
and the green fields by the side of the nile
where the car went speeding down to the sphinx
and the little boys rode their donkeys home
i spilled a cup once, on the floor of the shop
that startling display, the exuberance of the earth
across the cool tile floor
(I have not stopped sweating since I arrived)
I have not stopped shivering since i began
and this morning in the class on the television screen
the egypt they showed, the cairo of that street
it was not mine, it could not be mine
I think I have been cheated
out of a piece of silver I wanted very badly
here, take this, i am white and you deserve it,
still not much from my great store of treasures
but i say nothing when i give him the money
thank you miss i hope you have a safe trip home
thank you
(and the stale turkish coffee in the black coffee tin,
and the cheap grey caftan hanging from the cold closet rod)
(and the wind)
i will have to come visit again sometime soon
i will have to come visit again someday soon.